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Chronology

 

A Brief Listing Of The First American Mountaineering Camps Led Into The Following Mountain Regions Around The World By S. John & Jim Ebert:

1.                 In 1940, S. John Ebert led the very first mountaineering club camp into the Northern Wind Rivers Mountain Range, in Wyoming.  Gannett Peak, Wyoming’s highest, and five other peaks were ascended.  No other trekkers or climbers were seen during this campperiod.

 

2.                 In 1943, S. John Ebert led a group of 32 members to Devil’s Lake State Park, Wisconsin for a three-week rock climbing camp.  Over 76 new routes were made throughout the Park.

 

3.                 In 1946, S. John Ebert led the first American mountaineering camp to the Northern Selkirk’s, British Columbia, Canada.  Forty-two people participated. Ede Ebert was the first woman to make the first Grand Traverse on Mount Sir Donald via the Northwest Ridge and descent via the South Ridge and Face.  This was the third ascent. Seven other peaks were climbed.  No other climbers or trekkers were seen during this camp period.

 

4.                 In 1947, S. John Ebert led the first mountaineering camp to the Sawtooth Mountain Range of Idaho. Sixty-four members participated. Twenty mountains were climbed, 18 for the first time, 2 for the second time. The Iowa Mountaineers named eleven mountains including Mount Ebert, Mount Ede, Mount Iowa, and Mount Hancher (Named after the President of the University of Iowa).  Women ascended all of these peaks for the first time. Today, over 160 members have climbed Warbonnet by four different routes, 112 members have climbed Finger of Fate by four different routes, and 110 members have climbed Mount Heyburn by three different routes.  No other climbers or trekkers were seen during this camp period.

 

5.                 In 1948, S. John Ebert led the Historic First Group Ascent of Devil’s Tower, [Our Nation’s First National Monument], Wyoming. Eighteen members, including the second woman, Bonnie Fisher, ascended Devil’s Tower.  This group of Iowa Mountaineers included the first twenty-three people to ever stand on top of Devil’s Tower. They were also the first to overnight camp on the summit.  Only five other people had ever climbed Devil’s Tower prior to this historic group ascent.  Today, over 465 Iowa Mountaineer members have climbed Devil’s Tower by ten different routes.  Note 1948 National Geographic Magazine.  No other climbers were seen around  Devil’s Tower.

 

6.                 In 1949, S. John Ebert and Arthur Wendler started the first mountaineering course ever offered for University credit in an American University. The Course was offered for 3 hours of academic credit and titled, “Outings and Mountaineering”.  Today over 33,000 University of Iowa Students have taken academic courses taught by Jim Ebert. John Ebert started, at the University of Iowa, what Jim later developed into the largest outdoor academic training University in the World. No other university in the world taught more students outdoor skills than did the University of Iowa.  Each year, over 5500 students left the State of Iowa and traveled to Wisconsin, Colorado, Arizona and Canada to take Jim Ebert’s outdoor training courses in mountaineering, rock climbing, backpacking, cross-country skiing, and winter mountain survival training. There was not a single injury.

 

 

 

7.                 In 1950, S. John Ebert led the first American mountaineering camp (45 members) into the famous Lake O’Hara Mountain Area in the Canadian Rockies in Alberta, Canada.  Seven peaks were ascended.  Today over 125 members have climbed Mount Victoria and Mount Lefroy.  No other climbers or trekkers were seen in the Lake O’Hara area.

 

8.                 In 1951, S. John Ebert led the first group drive, (17 members), up the Alaska Highway to hold a mountaineering camp in Mount McKinley Park, [Now called Denali National Park] Alaska. Four peaks were ascended and named for first ascents in the Eastern Alaska Range. Driving the Alaska highway required great care as it was all gravel, it had huge potholes and it was very, very dusty.  Wildlife was seen as abundantly as on an African Safari.  Only one vehicle was seen on the Alaska Highway.

 

9.                 In 1952, S. John Ebert led a group of 12 people on a two week climbing trip to climb all three of the Mexican Volcanoes.  These were some of the earliest American Club ascents of Mexico’s highest peaks.  There were no paved roads, so driving to Mexico was an adventure in itself.  Tires would have as many as fifty patches apiece.

 

10.             In 1953, S. John Ebert led the very first American mountaineering camp into the world famous Bugaboo Mountain Range in British Columbia, Canada. Fifty-seven members participated. Access to this area required bridge building, road repair, tree cutting and chasing off Grizzlies. Nine peaks were ascended for the very earliest recorded American ascents.  Bugaboo Spire was climbed by nine members; Snow Patch by two members; Brenta Peak by 13 members; Crescent Spire by 28 members; Northpost Spire by 12 members; Blue Lake Spire by 4 members; Marmolada by 12 members; Eastpost by 10 members; and Pigeon Spire by 14 members.  Today over 86 members have climbed Bugaboo Spire, 94 members have climbed Pigeon Spire, and 104 members have climbed Snowpatch Spire.  No other trekkers or climbers were seen during this camp.

 

11.             In 1955, S. John Ebert led the first major mountaineering camp ever held in the Eastern Alaska Range.  Thirty-six members drove the Alaska Highway and climbed six peaks for first ascents. Alaska became the Forty Ninth State. Two First Ascents were named “Mount James” (after John Ebert’s son Jim) located northwest of Black Rapids Glacier and “Mount Sepp” located southwest of Black Rapids Glacier.  The Alaska Highway was still all gravel and required great care to avoid huge potholes that could easily destroy your vehicle.  Two dozen vehicles were seen driving the Alaska Highway.

 

 

 

12.             In 1956, S. John Ebert led the very first American mountaineering camp to Mount Assiniboine Provincial Park in British Columbia, Canada.  Fifty-six members participated. Sixteen peaks were ascended with 23 members climbing Mount Assiniboine. This total surpassed the total number of climbers that had ascended Mount Assiniboine during the prior 30 years.  Today, over 125 Iowa Mountaineer members have ascended Mount Assiniboine.  No other trekkers or climbers were seen in this area during this camp. 

 

13.             In 1957, S. John Ebert led the first American mountaineering camp into the Maligne Lake Mountain Area in Alberta, Canada. Seventy-five members participated. Fourteen peaks were ascended. Camp was placed at the far end of the lake near the mouth of Coronet Creek.  No other trekkers or climbers were seen in this area during this camp.

 

14.             In 1958, S. John Ebert led the Nation’s second mountaineering camp to the Clear Lake Area in the Southern Wind River Range in Wyoming.  Fifty-two members participated. Eighteen peaks were ascended, with members making three first ascents and two-second ascents. No other trekkers or climbers were seen in this area during this camp.

 

15.             In 1961, S. John Ebert led the first mountaineering climbing camp to the Needles of South Dakota. Forty-four members participated. Nineteen rock spires were ascended.  Many new routes were made.

 

16.             In 1961, S. John Ebert led the second American mountaineering camp to the Quebrada Yanganuco in the Cordillera Blanca of Peru. Forty-two members participated. Nevado Pisco (19,000 feet) was climbed by 24 men and the first and second women ascents; Nevado Chopicalqui (21,000 feet) was climbed by 10 men including the first and second woman ascents and Crispano (19,100 feet) was ascended for a first ascent and climbed by three people.  No other trekkers or climbers were seen in the area during this camp.

 

17.             In 1962, S. John Ebert led the first American mountaineering camp to the Tonquin Valley Mountain Area in Alberta, Canada. Seventy-seven members participated. Camp was located on the shores of Amethyst Lake at the foot of the Rampart Range. Nine peaks were ascended.  During this camp period, a Grizzly Bear charged and severely mauled a Ranger who was approaching his cabin with horse supplies. The cabin was situated along Amethyst Lake, a few miles from our camp.  This Grizzly raked the rangers leg open with it’s six inch long claws from his groin to his ankle as the ranger tried climbing up into a tree to escape certain death.  The Grizzly kept him trapped in this tree for over 24 hours while trying to chop the tree down with its claws during the night. The Grizzly wandered off the next day and the ranger was able to radio out for a helicopter evacuation. This same Grizzly later charged three of our climbing leaders as they were hiking out of this back region area at the end of our camp ten days later. The Grizzly abandoned her charge just a few feet from our members who had crawled into an erosion ditch along the trail in a desperate last resort. The Grizzly stood over them, growled, but soon departed on her way disappearing into the mountain forest. No one was injured. The Ranger recovered over time, but the bear was shot immediately after our group left the area and an autopsy was performed. A festering bullet wound was discovered in it’s skull. This female Grizzly’s cub was placed in a Canadian zoo.  No other trekkers or climbers were seen in this area during this camp.

 

 

18.             In 1963, the Iowa Mountaineers sponsored the first rock climbing camp to the Pikes Peak Crags, Colorado. Seventy-two members participated. Twenty-one first ascents, 12-second ascents, and over 80 ascents were made, involving over 264 person ascents.  No other climbers were seen in this area during this camp.

 

19.             In 1965, S. John Ebert led the first American group into the Quebrada Ishinca in the Cordillera Blanca of Peru.  Forty-four members and eight porters participated. A first ascent was made on Urus Central (18,028 feet), a first ascent and three new routes were made on Urus Este; and a first ascent was made on Urus Este’s Lower Summit; Nevado Ishinca (18,143 feet) was ascended by 32 members and a new route up the Northeast Ridge from the Ishinca-Palcaraju Col.; Tocllaraju (19,790 feet) was climbed by 24 members; Ranrapalca was climbed by 15 members; and Palcaraju-Oeste (20,046 feet) was climbed by 3 members. Five other peaks were each ascended by 20-25 members. No other mountaineers were seen in this area during our camp period.

 

20.             In 1966, the Iowa Mountaineers held the first mountaineering club camp to be held in the Beartooth Mountain Range in Montana.  Eighty members participated. High camps were set up throughout the Beartooth Range. Twelve mountains were ascended including the first and second ascents of Harvey’s Spire (11,300 feet), and Scotch Peak (11,500 feet). A second ascent was made on Beartooth Spire. A fifth ascent and a new route was made on the Northeast Ridge of Index Peak (11,741 feet). Over 234 person ascents were made on 12 major peaks.  No other climbers were seen in this area during our camp.

 

21.             In 1967, S. John Ebert led the largest foreign climbing group to ever visit the Ruwenzori Mountain Range in Uganda, Africa.  This was one of the first American groups to have ever climbed in this area. Over thirty-three people climbed seven peaks in the Ruwenzori; later, the group climbed Mount Kenya in Kenya, and climbed Mount Kilimanjaro (19,340 feet) in Tanzania.  No other mountaineers were seen during our trip.

 

22.             In 1969, S. John and Jim Ebert led the second American group into the Quebrada Quilcayhuampa Valley in the Cordillera Blanca in Peru with 63 members. Ten peaks were ascended including Chincey (20,413 feet) and two first ascents.  Twenty-three members ascended Nevado Hauscaran (22,220 feet) including the second and third woman ascents.  Jim Ebert was, at the time, the youngest climber to have ever ascended Hauscaran’s 22,220 summit.

No other climbers or trekkers were seen during our trip.

 

23.             In 1970, the Iowa Mountaineers sponsored the second climbing camp to the Big Horn Mountains of Wyoming. Eleven peaks were ascended and 16 new routes were recorded.  No other climbers or trekkers were seen during our camp.

 

24.             In 1972, S. John and Jim Ebert led a group of 46 members into the Quebrada Santa Cruz and the Quebrada Ulta in the Cordillera Blanc in Peru. This was the first American mountaineering group to visit these two areas. A new route was made on Chopicalqui (21,000 feet) by Ron Fear, Jim Ebert and three others; two new routes on Rinrahirca by the Northeast face and the North Ridge; a new route on Taulliraju by the Northeast Ridge and a new route was made on Contahierbas.  Sixteen members ascended Nevado Hauscaran (22,220 feet). No other climbers or trekkers were seen during our camp.

 

25.             In 1973, Jim Ebert taught the Nation’s first one week Top Rope Instructor Certification Course taught at Devil’s Lake State Park, Wisconsin. Today over 3500 outdoor educators have completed this intensive Top Rope Instructor Certification Course.

 

26.             In 1976, Jim Ebert led the first American Mountaineering Camp to the Lake of the Hanging Glaciers in the Purcell Mountain Range in British Columbia, Canada. Fifty-five members participated. Seven peaks were ascended. No other climbers or trekkers were seen during our camp period.

 

27.             In 1978, S. John and Jim Ebert led a group of sixty-five members into the Quebrada Honda in the Cordillera Blanca in Peru.  This was only the second time an American mountaineering camp had visited this area. Over ten peaks were climbed.  Many of these peaks were ascended for only the second or third ascents.  Many of these peaks were climbed for the first time by women.  No other climbers or trekkers were seen during our camp.

 

 

 

28.             In 1979, Jim Ebert led a group of thirty-seven Iowa Mountaineers into the Farnham Creek/Commander Glacier Area in the Purcell Range in British Columbia, Canada.  This was the first American Club to visit this area. Thirty-seven climbers ascended Mount Commander (twelve making a grand traverse); twenty climbed the Cleaver, fourteen ascended Mount May, nine ascended Mount Delphine; four the Eastern Guardsman; seven Mount Jumbo; and nineteen an unnamed peak at the end of the valley.  No other climbers or trekkers were seen in this area during our camp.

 

29.             In 1981, S. John and Jim Ebert led the largest mountaineering camp to ever climb in the Cordillera Blanca in Peru.  Over 61 members, eight porters, set up camp in the Quebrada Rurec. This was the first major mountaineering camp to climb in this area. Rurec 1, a first ascent, was climbed by 31 members; Rurec 2 (17,480 feet) a first ascent, was ascended by 39 members; Rurec 3 (17,556 feet), a third ascent, was ascended by 32 members; Nevado Rurec (18,000 feet) was ascended by a new route directly up the South Face; Kashan (18,885 feet) was climbed by a new route; Cerro Pumahuagangan (16,948 feet) was climbed for a first ascent; Urushraja (18,925 feet) was climbed for a second ascent; Uruashraju Chico (17,820 feet) was ascended by a new route; and the Lower Peak of Urushraja was ascended for a first ascent.  Seven peaks recorded the first woman ascents. No other trekkers or climbers were seen in this area during our camp. Twenty-four members reached the summit of Nevado Hauscaran (22,220 feet). [Today, over 225 Iowa Mountaineer members have reached the summit of Nevado Hauscaran (22,220 feet), Peru’s highest peak, including the second and third woman ascents.  The Iowa Mountaineers have ascended over 120 peaks above 17,800 feet in Peru’s Cordillera Blanca since 1961.] 

 

30.             In 1982, S. John and Jim Ebert led a group to Tanzania to climb Mount Kilimanjaro (19,340 feet). This was the Iowa Mountaineers fifth trip to East Africa and to the summit of Mount Kilimanjaro.  The Club set two world records; getting 38 out of 40 climbers to the top of Mount Kilimanjaro at the same time; and the most climbers on top at one time out of the group that had originally set off to ascend the mountain. No other hikers were seen ascending the mountain when we were on the mountain. [Today, after many trips to Africa and to Mount Kilimanjaro, over 275 Iowa Mountaineer members have reached Mount Kilimanjaro’s (19,340 foot) summit, Africa’s highest mountain.]

 

31.             In 1983, Jim Ebert led the first American mountaineering club camp of 46 members into the Quebrada Rajucolta in the Cordillera Blanca in Peru. Two high camps were used, one at the base of Yawarraju (18,616 feet), the other above Lake Tambillo to the North. One hundred people ascended summits on six different peaks over 18,000 feet. Many peaks recorded the first woman ascents. Twenty-two people ascended Nevado Huascaran, (22,220 feet) Peru’s highest peak.  No other climbers or trekkers were seen in this area during our camp.

 

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